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INTRODUCING: HYKE

DESIGNER FEATURES - Oct fifteen, 2021

Attention to detail, textile, and silhouette in HYKE's clothes are next to none.

HYKE is a Japanese brand run by a married man and married woman duo Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode. Since its launch in 2013 the brand has caused a cult following in Japan, where their clothes, besides as their ongoing collaborations with Northward Face, adidas, and Mackintosh routinely sell out, but is little known outside of it. We decided to right this wrong by bringing HYKE to ANT/DOTE - nosotros are the exclusive stockist for the brand in the entire North American region. We were doubly excited, after Moncler's recent collaboration with the brand that will surely put it on the global map, to run across that we are not the only ones who have been paying attending.

I discovered HYKE on my commencement trip to Tokyo in 2015, and I was impressed past the rigor with which the duo constructed the clothes. When I later learned that both designers have been trained in menswear, it fabricated sense - after all, there is something absolutely mod in taking the menswear codes and applying them to womenswear, replacing the frou-frou with a sure practicality and matter-of-factness that goes to the core of blueprint and dispenses with the superfluous. Which is not at all to say that HYKE'due south clothes are masculine - not in the to the lowest degree. Rather, their elegance is quiet and confident. Attention to particular, textile, and silhouette in HYKE'southward clothes are next to none.

Yoshihara and Ode began their careers not in design but in retail. For virtually twenty years the couple ran a vintage clothing store in Tokyo's posh-but-edgy Daikanyama district. During this fourth dimension they accumulated an extensive drove of vintage workwear, military gear, and sportswear. HYKE was born out of an idea of reinterpreting these wearing apparel for the modern world. Simply reinterpretation does not hateful copying - there are only distant echoes of vintage classics in HYKE's designs. Materials like armed forces canvas are freely mixed with tech fabrics but besides fine wools, and pleated skirts coexist with quilted liners and Chiliad-65 field jackets made newly elegant.

For this Fall / Winter 2021 drove HYKE continued to explore their obsession with reinterpreting vintage military machine and workwear styles, transforming them into modern womenswear. Some examples - a 1950'due south British Army Sniper Cape was transformed into an elegant disproportionate blackness wool version. A faux shearling glaze was inspired past a US Regular army Medical Glaze, and a khaki quilted liner (bachelor at our shop) was inspired past liners from M65 jackets. These references may non be apparent to the coincidental observer, merely they imbue HYKE's clothes with that je ne sais quoi spirit that makes the clothes immediately attractive.

Nosotros caught up with Yoshihara and Ode to ask them six simple questions. Their answers are below.

How did yous determine to start HYKE?

In 1997 we first started a vintage shop chosen Bowles and nosotros began collecting many vintage uniform and workwear items that nosotros actually loved. Rather than selling these items and parting with them, nosotros decided to begin using these pieces every bit sources of inspiration to pattern our own collection, which we launched called Greenish. The collection connected to evolve and we presented our first runway show for Autumn Wintertime 2005 in Tokyo but in 2009, we paused our drove to focus on raising our two children. In 2013 nosotros started our line but decided to relaunch it under the new name HYKE.

Was in that location something that you felt missing in the world of fashion that you wanted to run into?

Yoshihara: Yes, I felt that in both luxury (loftier) style and streetwear, at that place was something missing and we wanted to create something to fill that gap. Ode: As a designer, I always felt that womenswear was lacking in styles that I wanted to article of clothing myself, and I could never detect items that actually integrated the best part of menswear detailing.

Can you describe the ethos of HYKE in your own words?

Heritage HYKE's concept of Heritage and Development, comes from the exploration of archival garments of workwear, military wear and uniforms, often developed by anonymous designers which we have re-imagined. Utility Nosotros wanted to comprise the commonsensical aspects of workwear and armed services vesture designs to create a new and modern wardrobe through HYKE. Innovation Nosotros wanted to actively incorporate new fabrications and construction techniques to further evolve the designs of HYKE.

You both have affinity for menswear. How practice you translate that into womenswear?

Yoshihara: When we design, we are not and so focused on the thought of creating womenswear specifically. We commencement by developing designs inspired by some of the menswear vintage items simply the final product is balanced to exist the correct proportion for women. It may be most similar to the thought of taking adult clothing and scaling it down for children, and the specific charm this can bring nigh. Ode: Since my teenage years, I have always been fatigued to vintage menswear, and styling these frequently oversized items for myself has probably helped me develop a specific eye for how I design.

You lot recently collaborated with Moncler, and in Japan you regularly interact with North Confront and adidas. How do you lot approach each collaboration?

When we collaborated with adidas, we wanted to focus on their sportswear production expertise and heritage of their brand to create something from a modernistic perspective. For The North Face, we were drawn to their innovations in functionality of outdoor performance gear and reinterpreted these through HYKE's unique sensibility. Our participation in the Moncler Genius project was quite dissimilar from other collaborations. Unremarkably when we take collaborated with other brands, the focus was always to have the individuality and strengths of both brands coming through. With Moncler Genius, in the context where Moncler asked 11 different brands to collaborate with them while existence showcased adjacent, we felt that the collaboration was about bringing HYKE'due south distinctive point of view to the drove.

Is your work informed by other cultural disciplines, such equally art, music, books? If so, could yous tell us how and what are some of your favorite artists, musicians, authors?

We practice not accept specific inspirations from other cultural disciplines, but every bit nosotros are seeing and experiencing things, these influences may subconsciously be filtering into our design process. For architecture and design nosotros love Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand, Pierre Jeanneret, Eileen Gray, Jean Prouvé, Frank Lloyd Wright, Rudolph Schindler, Sori Yanagi, Junzo Yoshimura, and Junzo Sakakura. Photographers we dear include Bernd and Hilla Becher and Baronial Sander. Also as or possibly greater is the influence we take from the many anonymous designers who have designed the workwear and armed forces wear that we have been so attracted to. Nosotros as well love the CORNING USN mug cup that nosotros utilize daily for its specific milky glass color and texture. These types of designs where we may know the manufacturer of the production only non necessarily the name of the designer who adult the pieces, with a focus on the function and employ of cutting edge engineering science are especially highly-seasoned to us.

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Source: https://antidotestyle.com/blogs/anti-mag/introducing-hyke

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